All good things must end, and so did my two whisky-laden weeks in Scotland. I couldn’t miss the chance to finish with a bang. My thinking is that good memories will foster future return trips to Islay. The final high point of the trip came with the Bruichladdich Experience. This combines a distillery tour with a warehouse tasting of three exclusive cask samples. And when they say exclusive, they mean it. In my previous post, I mentioned how the Bunnahabhain Warehouse 9 casks are available to buy for everyone who visits the distillery, independently of their participation in the warehouse tasting. In total contrast, the Bruichladdich Experience cask samples are not available for sale at all. If you want to try them, you can only do so by taking part in this tour or the warehouse tasting experience.
Bruichladdich has a certain sentimental value for me. It was one of the “new” reborn distilleries on tevery whisky fan mouth when I started getting into whisky a bit more seriously, about 20 years back. Today I feel it is not as hyped as it once was, but still firmly in whisky geek’s hearts, if Darmface’s top 40 distilleries list is anything to go by. And this remains, even after some releases widely criticised for their pricing.
But enough chit chat. What can you expect from the Bruichladdich Experience?
Visiting Bruichladdich, even for someone who has been on several distillery tours, is fascinating. While the machinery used is a masterclass of how long products made without obsolescence by design can last, the production approach shows that the “Progressive” moniker is well deserved.
The distllery tour: old machinery and modern outlook
Bruichladdich, like many others, does not malt its own barley. It does however focus on the provenance of this key ingredient. The first step of the tour dedicates some time to the origin of the barley. In particular, for their various Islay Barley editions, Bruichladdich has been working extensively with local farmers. The barley choice is left to the farmers, trusting they know what will perform best in each field, resulting in 19 varieties being used over the years. The barley is still weighed with a machine from 1881 and milled using an old Boby mill.
The open-top semi-lauter mash tun is another historical piece. Most distilleries mash the milled barley 3 times, while Bruichladdich performs a fourth mash. The last two washes are recycled as water for the successive first mash of the cycle. Fermentation is performed in wooden washbacks for 75-95 hours, to maximise aromatic complexity.
There are a total of 5 stills operating in the quite compact still room, 2 pairs of plain tall pot stills used for single malt production and the famous Ugly Betty (a very unfair name in my opinion), a Lomond still “rescued” from the Inverleven distillery and used to produce the Botanist gin.
Differently from some of its more corporate peers on Islay, Bruichladdich matures its whisky on Islay, in part at the distillery and in part in some quite noticeable warehouses just to the west. You can believe that the site of maturation noticeably impacts the end product or not. Without any form of evidence, I am in the camp of those who feel that where the whisky is matured has at least some effect on the end product.
Tasting impressions
After the tour, the Bruichladdich Experience continued in the warehouse with the sampling of three special casks. I do believe these change regularly so if you plan to go the cask samples will likely be different, though equally special. We had the chance to try one cask of each of Bruichladdich’s lines.
Bruichladdich 2003 Organic Barley 56.5%
Aged in Buffalo Trace bourbon casks, 2nd fill for the first 14 years, then first fill. This was the first run of whisky distilled from organic barley, which at the time came from Inverness.
If I had to pick a dram of whisky which made me understand that I am just at the start of my whisky exploration, this would be it. I had never really understood what an “elegant” older bourbon matured whisky can deliver. While I enjoyed it, at first I was slightly underwhelmed. It was only when I had a chance to try the half measure I took home with more time at hand that I was hit by how good this was. I also tried it side by side vs the Classic Laddie, which was eye-opening.
It is almost unassuming in its elegance. At first, it is very bourbon forward with notes of cherry, vanilla, caramel and cinnamon. Then the malt comes out, apples and apricots, oaky, petrichor, and just a hint of barrel char, On the palate it is smooth and creamy, with delicate malt notes, cherry, tangerine rind, caramel sauce, vanilla, and loads of cinnamon. The medium long finish continues to play on similar notes.
In comparison, the Classic Laddie, a whisky I reviewed positively, tasted almost like a cheap blend… OK, I am slightly exaggerating but the difference was staggering.
Port Charlotte 2016 65.9% Aged in virgin oak casks with charred cask ends
Dark gold in colour. In the best Port Charlotte tradition, the nose opens on strong woody and floral peat. Then fruit-flavoured hard candy, pineapple, vanilla pastry, candied lemon peel, powdered sugar, finishing on a breakfast cereal note. On the palate the vanilla is almost as noticeable as the peat, followed by pineapple custard cake, caramel, and a floral note reminding me of my grandma’s old-fashioned face powder, so a mix of chalky dust and rose water. The medium-long finish highlights peat, fruity and vanilla notes.
Of the three samples tried, this one is the one closest to its standard sibling, the PC10. Or rather, a PC10 dressed up in fruit candy. One aspect that surprised me is that even at 65.9% abv it didn’t come across as hot.
Octomore 2009 60% 110 ppm aged 14 years in second fill Sauternes (Yquem) casks
Deep russet gold in colour. The peat is there but transformed into a somewhat funky/cheesy smoke, and then the well-integrated Sauternes notes emerge. I get dried apricots and pineapple, charred pineapple, slightly burnt marmalade, burnt honey, cocoa butter, yellow flowers, and just a hint of oakiness. On the palate, it remains very complex. There are charred wood logs, cheese rinds, then dried apricots, charred pineapple, burnt heather, burnt honey and almost a waxy mouthfeel. Very long finish, like chewing sweet dried fruit next to a raging bonfire.
Out of all the samples I tried on this trip, I have no hesitation in saying this is the one that stands out most. I don’t even want to imagine how much a theoretical 12 yo Octomore might cost. Considering the normal 5-year-old is already in a range that makes me stop and seriously think, it would probably be a silly sum. And yet I would seriously consider buying this even at a stupid price,
The Laddie Shop
As with my previous posts, I am closing with a few notes on the shop. The shop offers an extensive selection of bottlings from the original lineup, including older stock like the Bruichladdich 30 yo, special cask and barley editions. During my visit, about 3 months removed from Féis ìle, there were still plenty of festival bottlings available. To wrap things up there are some distillery-exclusive hand-fill casks available. One thing I really appreciated is also the availability of samples to either try at the shop’s bar or to take with you. This is a great way to appease your curiosity without dishing out for a full bottle.
Just one word of advice: coming to the shop after the Bruichladdich Experience, will increase the temptation to overbuy. My suggeston would be to come here with a shortlist of what you are looking for and stick to that!
To wrap things up: if you have never been to Bruichladdich, seriously consider their Experience. It does what it promises. You will see how the distillery works and sample some of its most exclusive output. And if you have visited already, I would probably go for the Warehouse tasting. I definitely would. If only to see what other secret casks are hiding in that warehouse.
Stay tuned for a final post on whisky-focused travel in Scotland before I get back to my regular programming!
If you have enjoyed this content, please share a comment below and consider supporting the cost of this blog via the button below