TL:DR: The original peat bomb, simple but reliable, delivering even at 40% abv
Vote*: 6, Good stuff
For the last of my introductory peat drams I am choosing to review the Laphroaig 10 year old. This will probably be a controversial choice, a bit like this whisky itself. Rather than going for gentler peated drams like the Highland Park 12 or the Talisker Skye, we are straight into peat bomb territory. There is little doubt that Laphroaig 10 YO is an intensely medicinal peated whisky, and one many new drinkers, but also some more experienced ones, dislike. It is, however, also one bottle which I know has converted many people -myself included- to single malt, thanks to how unique it comes across to whisky novices.
I do believe this is one of those drams that you need to try early in your whisky journey. Going back to the cheese and peat comparison, this is your blue cheese test. If you like it you will be hooked. If it overpowers your senses you will learn to avoid it or approach it with time and care. It was “love at first dram” for me. As soon as I had my first sip, over 20 years ago, I was fascinated, puzzled, and slightly overwhelmed but could not stop from going back and trying to understand what the heck I was drinking.
With more experience, I learned that the famous motto: “The most richly flavoured of all Scotch whiskies”, does not hold anymore. There are more intense peated whiskies out there today. Laphroaig seems to have realised this too, so much so that the recent end of 2023 rebranding of the 10 year old bottle seems to have lost the old motto.
Before I get into the review of the Laphroaig 10, I have to call out that this is also my first double review. I had a sample of Laphroaig Lore at hand, which I acquired through a friendly fellow whisky geek, and comparing the two seemed appropriate. The Lore comes at a higher abv, 48%, and is aged in a mix of ex-bourbon, Oloroso Sherry and quarter casks. It is non-age stated but the marketing material does state that it is a mix of different whisky casks aged between 7 and 21 years of age. How does the classic, but unpretentious 10 YO compare to this more elaborate version?
Laphroaig 10 years old
Specs
Price paid: 38.75€
Lot/bottled date: L3 012 SB1
ABV: 40%
Natural colour: No
Non-chill filtered: Not stated but unlikely
Casks used: ex-bourbon casks
Tasting Notes
Colour: Rich ripe-wheat gold. The added caramel colour is noticeable but not overboard (unlike the Skye).
Aromas: The initial impact is quite intense, antiseptic phenol, intense but not overly so, and then a lot of vanilla. The peat gains smokiness after a few minutes. Some fruit notes emerge (pear, melon), though more than fresh fruit it is overripe. Along with the fruit, there is lemon peel, some iodine/seaweed and a hint of honey. The peat and vanilla remain predominant on the nose but with time it gets sweeter, with more vanilla than antiseptic. The nose is quite simple but intense.
Taste: A lot of phenolic antiseptics, salty/savoury not super long but quite intense. The vanilla and fruit are a bit of an afterthought. The palate while simple, is fascinating nonetheless.
Finish: Phenolic, sea spray and smoky on the aftertaste. It is long, the medicinal peat takes a while to disappear.
How does it behave with a drop of water? Less intense but pretty consistent on the nose. On the palate, the 10 year old becomes toned down, slightly more maritime, and shorter.
Vote*: 6. Not the most complex of Islay peated whiskies but it is a dram that is true to itself with its intense phenolic delivery. Nose, taste and aftertaste work in a balance, if a medicinal reek one. Even more impressive considering the 40% abv.
Laphroaig Lore
Specs
Price paid: Sample – current online prices are in the 65-100€ range depending on market
Lot/bottled date: unknown
ABV: 48%
Natural colour: No
Non-chill filtered: Yes
Casks used: ex-Bourbon, European oak and Oloroso sherry barrels, plus quarter casks. Mix of whiskies between 7 and 21 year old
Tasting Notes
Colour: Dark coppery gold
Aromas: Starts very sherry driven with raisins, walnuts, and a hint of cardamom, but the spirit and bourbon are only lingering behind. Vanilla, woodsmoke, some phenolic and slightly rubbery peat notes, followed by dark ripe fruit emerge very quickly. Overall it makes me think of a band-aid covered in a thick layer of sweet and fruity BBQ sauce. The phenolic peat becomes more noticeable after a few minutes, there is a hint of chocolate, dark honey and some maritime notes. Compared side by side, it is less intense than the 10YO but significantly more layered and elegant.
Taste: Intense wood smoke peat with a phenolic punch, black pepper, dark honey, some nuttiness and bitter chocolate. Rapidly dies down to just peat, honey, oak dryness and a touch of dark chocolate.
Finish: Not very intense oddly, but some of the nose sweetness comes back, phenolic peat, sea spray, dried fruit and cocoa.
How does it behave with a drop of water? The nose is transformed, and there are nutty sherry notes but the smoke is more BBQ meat, Seabreeze, phenol and vanilla.The palate becomes less peppery, and sweeter with the phenolic peat balanced by vanilla, raisins and honey notes, it also seems a bit longer. Less complex but more enjoyable.
Vote*: 6. Although the quality of the spirit in the Lore is a step up from the 10 in complexity, elegance and overall experience, it does have some aspects that bring the vote down.
The palate drops in intensity after a few seconds, which I would maybe expect in a 40% abv dram, but not at 48%. The other aspect is the price: would find paying 65€ a bit too much but at close to 100€, which seems more common as price around European shops, it is simply overpriced, which drops the score by at least half a point.
*Votes are based on the scoring scale used by Dramface, slightly modified to allow half-points
Conclusions
I had not tried the Laphroaig 10 year old for years probably, yet this review brought back why I fell in love with it as a fresh whisky drinker. You can take the negative opinions and the positive ones about this dram an argue both are absolutely correct. 40% abv non integrate bottle? Check. Medicinal and weird smelling and tasting? Check. A unique whisky with a character that stands out? Check again!
Even after all these years, I still like the Laphroaig 10. My taste in peated whiskies has changed and I do prefer other, more nuanced bottles, but I will slip a cheeky dram now and then. The comparison with the Lore, richer, more complex and elegant highlighted one fact. The 10 YO might be a simpler dram, but it provides a cohesive experience, where aromas, taste and aftertaste are all balanced. The Lore, for all the wonderful nose aromas it gives, does not manage to do the same due to a palate which is not as rich or long as the nose is. Sometimes simpler is maybe not better, but just as good.
I always find it interesting, after writing my tasting notes, to look at other opinions. Here are a few other reviews enjoyed for the
Laphroaig 10
Laphroaig Lore
And finally take on both from the Whiskey Vault (with a very weird start to the video).
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