With this penultimate instalment of my look at cask finishes in whisky, I am about to review the Glenglassaugh Portsoy. Potentially, this could be an interesting look at a different take to finish. Rather than a single malt where cask finish is the main component of the whisky’s character, like the Arran Amarone or Ardnamurchan Sauternes, here the Port casks are used as a part of the flavour influence. I cannot avoid talking about Glenglassaugh in 2025, without mentioning the staff reductions and temporary closure, one of the first indicators of what some believe could become the next whisky loch. So, before jumping to the review of the Glenglassaugh Portsoy, let me spend a moment reflecting on the state of the industry.
TL:DR: Sweet, maritime, mildly peated and a touch of Port cask flavouring.
Score*: 6, Good stuff
Glenglassaugh goes silent
In January of this year (2025) social media rumours emerged suggesting Glenglassaugh might be closing after employees at the distilleries were let go. The distillery owners, Brown Forman, announced this was part of a 12% workforce reduction across its operations, caused by the downturn in whisky worldwide. It later emerged that Glenglassaugh would be silent, at least until late 2025, but that it would continue to operate, sharing staff with another one of Brown Forman’s Scottish distilleries, Benriach. For many, this was the first real sign confirming an upcoming, and potentially lengthy, industry downturn. Another dreaded whisky loch.
The next whisky loch?
If you are reading this, I assume you are likely familiar with the 1980’s whisky loch. If you are not, it was a time when a combination of bad forecasting & overproduction, changing consumer habits and economic downturn caused a sharp decline in demand, closure of many distilleries with an estimated 20+ closing down for good (although some, like Port Ellen and Brora are on the way back). So why would trouble at one distillery be the harbinger of doom? Not everyone agrees, to be fair, but for some, the signs are on the wall. Scottish whisky export figures recovered in the second half of last year, but a careful read of the SWA numbers shows that it was thanks to sales of bulk single and blended grain whisky. Single malt was down -17.2% by volume.
At the same time, rumours abound regarding distilleries reducing production shifts, some being close to bankruptcy, and others being up for sale. Nothing concretely confirmed, but the rumours are becoming increasingly frequent, to the point that no one would be surprised if some of them turned into confirmed news soon. Like the recent announcement from Isle of Harris distillery reducing staff and cutting production. And the downturn is not only hitting Scotland. Pernod Ricard has halted production at Midleton distillery in Ireland at least until the summer. Time will tell if this is a momentary crisis or a longer one – hopefully the former, especially if the largest players in the industry stop chasing premiumisation and exclusivity and come back to earth.
But enough doom and gloom, let’s move on to the review of the Glenglassaugh Portsoy.
Glenglassaugh Portsoy
Specs
Price paid: €49.99
Bottled date: 31/5/2023
ABV: 49.1%
Natural colour: No information provided.
Non-chill filtered: No information provided.
Casks Used: Bourbon, Sherry and Port – no further information provided
Tasting Notes
Colour: Dark coppery gold. Since there is no info on the addition of caramel, this may be the Port cask influence or the caramel playing a role… maybe both.
Nose: The initial impression does not betray the Port cask influence much, but is instead lead by the spirit and the Bouron and Sherry cask influence. The nose is sweet, maritime and slightly smoky. Ripe pear and apple, lemon, sea spray, woodsmoke, dried raisins, vanilla and some sherry rancio (the typical oxidation smell you get in Oloroso). Then the Port cask starts to make itself noticed: red fruit (raspberry and cherry), some aniseed and cinnamon and a hint of floral notes, geranium possibly.
Palate and finish: The mouthfeel is slightly thin, somewhat surprising for a 49.1% dram. Maybe Brown Forman’s penchant for chill filtration at work. The taste is significantly peatier than the nose, woody and floral Highland peat. Some spice, pepper & cinnamon, rich tea biscuits, caramel, some saltiness, liquorice, some stewed plums and a touch of minerality.
The finish is medium, with fruity (both white orchard fruit and red berries), sea spray, a light floral hint and closing on some ashy peat.
Score*: 6, good stuff
Let’s start with a few things about the Glenglassaugh Portsoy I just reviewed, which rub me the wrong way. Even admitting I am not a huge fan of nautical themes, I have to admit this is one of the nicest packaged whiskies in its category. I just wish the same care had gone into the transparency of information. We have no details to know if caramel colour was used (likely), or if it was chill filtered. The ABV might indicate it is not, but Brown Forman, Glenglassaugh’s owners, have a solid reputation for employing chill filtration at least to some extent. Even the information on the casks used is vague, to say the least.
And yet, it is the liquid in the glass that has to speak. And it does so, but with some limitations. It is a decently put-together whisky, but not one that blows me away. The mouthfeel is suprisingly thin for the ABV and, I find it a bit too sweet to remain engaging beyond a dram. This is very personal. And if you like oyur whisky on the sweeter side, you may very well get more mileage out of this one.
* Scores are based on the scoring scale used by Dramface, slightly modified to allow half-points
A quick PSA note
My original intention was to keep the posting schedule for Road to Dram on a twice-a-week rhythm. After over a year of posting, I have realised that the original schedule plan works only when family and work commitments remain steady, but go out the window once “real life” needs attention. So, to keep this passion project alive in a sustainable way, I have decided to modify the posting schedule to once weekly, on Saturdays. Thank you for visiting Road to Dram, and make sure to subscribe to my monthly updates.
Interested in my take on a specific whisky style? Check the full Journey here and jump to the relevant Chapter.
After writing my tasting notes, I always find it interesting to look at other opinions. Here are a few other reviews of Glenglassaugh Portsoy I enjoyed:
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