Ask a group of self-declared whisky aficionados which distillery they want to see move into full integrity-presented core range. I am sure Benromach will be mentioned more than once. Benromach’s core range gets a lot of love, but many of us, me included, bemoan the fact that the 10 (which I reviewed a while back), 15 and 21 year olds are not only all bottled at 43% and therefore chill-filtered. And while it seems caramel colouring is kept at arm’s length, its absence is not declared. Luckily there is one core range bottling that elevates itself, today’s whisky in review the Benromach Cask Strength, the 2014 Batch 2 edition specifically (and yes that batch number matters).
TL:DR: Surprisingly delicate but extremely elaborate on the nose, powerful on the palate. AOne for long meditative sessions.
Score*: 8.5, Something Special… and even a bit more
One of the reasons I put Benromach on that list of distilleries that should fully embrace integrity bottlings is simple: their owners, Gordon & McPhail. Looking at the over 5,000 IB whiskies they bottled, at least those which are recorded on Whiskybase, it is pretty evident that lower ABV bottlings, much more common in the past, have become rare. And often, they represent very old vintages likely to have reached those levels naturally.
One for the punters and one for the geeks?
So why not take that step for their distillery? Even more so considering the intention to exit the IB space and focus only on their own production. It would be easy to be cynical. So let me be kind: I think Gordon & McPhail are being pragmatic. And frankly, they are not the only ones. Their core range is aimed at a broader market than the whisky aficionados.
At the same time, they clearly understand the importance of upholding a reputation in the enthusiast community. Their Contrast range is a whisky geek’s wet dream, providing the unique opportunity to access and compare experimental productions. The occasional single cask seems to last very little on the shelf. Last but not least, their core range Benromach Cask Strength, which I’ll review in a moment, remains easily available and obtainable at a fair price.
Will that stop me bitching about wanting the 10 and the 15 at 46% and fully natural? Absolutely not. Two great whiskies would probably become absolute bangers with just a touch more effort.
Benromach Cask Strength 2014
Specs
Price paid: €73.10
Lot: 2014 Batch 2 (25/9/2023)
ABV: 59.7%
Natural colour: Yes
Non-chill filtered: Yes
Casks Used: A vatting of 20 casks, ex-Bourbon and first fill Sherry
Tasting Notes
Colour: A rich gold, with just a hint of amber
Nose: At first, I am wondering if I have a cold. The nose starts extremely shy. It takes a good ten minutes and more to fully open up. But what a journey that is. In that process, this 2014 batch 2 reveals layers and layers of aromas. It starts with orange marmalade, semi-sweet chocolate, wet forest floor, cinnamon and cardamom and vanilla custard.
Then some fermentation-driven notes: sourdough starter, overripe fruit, rye bread. Just a hint of woody smoke reminds me this is indeed peated. The greasy funk that I always get in Benromach makes a familiar appearance. Then, out of left field, fruit, and loads of it: rich, ripe apples, peaches and apricots, even a touch of sea salt. Simply impressive.
Taste: If the nose is shy to start the palate is immediately much bolder. Oily and rich. The peat becomes a lot more evident here, woody and sweet as Benromach’s peat tends to be, always reminding me of charred chestnuts in Autumn. Both casks bring a noticeable input. The ex-Sherry ones provide a blast of blowtorch caramelised orange, cinnamon, a little espresso and chocolate syrup The ex-Bourbon casks contribute cinnamon and ginger, baked apples, and some creamy vanilla.
The finish is medium, just a tiny bit hot, spicy and rich with woodsmoke, rum-soaked raisins, orange zest and orange syrup, a touch of mocha and chocolate.
Score*: 8.5, Something special… and even a bit more
I heard more expert drinkers than me sometimes state that Benromach is the Springbank of the Speyside. To be frank, until today, I felt it was a load of … hyperbole. And yet, this Benromach Cask Strenght in today’s review has a hint of Springbank character in it. The mix of peat, funk and fermentation notes definitely plays a part.
And yet, it is so much something else. The nose is almost like a fractal. The more time I spent with it, the more facets I discovered. And I do love to nose whisky, so there is a personal bias here. Then, once on the palate, it turns into a full and bold dram. Frankly, I didn’t try it with water; I enjoyed it as is and didn’t want to risk losing the unadulterated experience. And I suspect that it will open up even more and get better as the level in my bottle drops. Well done Benromach.
* Scores are based on the scoring scale used by Dramface, slightly modified to allow half-points
I usually like to link to other reviewers’ opinions to provide you with other opinions on the same whisky. This time I have failed, I could not find any review of this specific release. If I missed one or more, please let me know in the comments.
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