TL:DR: The nice aromas on the nose don’t redeem a watery dram. Triple distilled for smoothness, neutered once diluted to 40%.
Vote*: 4.5 Shows some promise and almost gets to Average (in a good way).
*Votes are based on the scoring scale used by Dramface, slightly modified to allow half-points
For today’s review, I am trying the Auchentoshan 12 year old Delicate and Layered. You can skip to the review here if you want.
When deciding which entry level whiskies to pick for my first dip into sherry cask influence, I let my own past experience drive the decision. The Auchentoshan 12 year old is a whisky I occasionally tried when I was living back in Glasgow. I cannot say it left a particular impression, good or bad, back then. I do remember it being quite sherried even though it is clearly stated this is a bourbon and sherry matured dram. Add to that a decent price and the choice was made.
Auchentoshan, owned today by Beam Suntory (as Laphroaig, Bowmore and others) is one of the longest standing Lowland distilleries. It has been operating since 1823, and has remained open throughout except during World War II. In those years it was shut down due to the air raids on the Clyde’s shipyards. The Lowlands were once an active whiskey producing region, if maybe not exactly renowned for the quality produced. With time many of the distilleries located here closed. This got so extreme that in the late 90s, Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie were the only remaining Lowland distilleries. Since 2005, this has changed dramatically with 20 active distilleries in the region today (at the end of 2023).
Triple Distillation
Auchentoshan is unique in the fact that it is the only distillery in Scotland to fully triple distil all its whiskies. Triple distillation is generally associated with Irish whisky. Looking back in time, it was probably slightly more common in Scotland in the past (Talisker was triple distilled until 1928 for example). Some distilleries have triple distilled releases (Benromach and Benriach). Springbank’s Hazelburn line is triple distilled. Still, no one else offers fully triple distilled whisky line up in Scotland right now. Auchentoshan will not remain alone for long. The recently re-opened Rosebank just started production and will also apparently focus fully on triple distilled whisky.
In case you are wondering, triple distillation introduces an Intermediate still between the Wash and Spirit stills commonly used in Scotland for single malt production. This extra distillation step allows producers to obtain a final new make spirit of 80% abv or thereabouts, vs the more usual 60-70% It also delivers a lighter profile compared to a two pot still distillation. The extra distillation also increases the amount of copper contact, of reflux, and also allows the distiller an additional opportunity to set specific cut pints for the spirit. If you find graphical descriptions helpful, like I do, below I created a simple triple distillation process based on what I could find about Auchentoshan’s process online.
Let’s dive into the review of the Auchentoshan 12 year old.
Auchentoshan 12 year old – Delicate and Layered
Specs
Price paid: 30.20€
Lot/bottled date: L2059SB3
ABV: 40%
Natural colour: No
Non-chill filtered: No
Casks used: Bourbon and Sherry
Tasting Notes
Neck pour: The sherry is pretty dominant on the nose: nutty, dried orange peel and some pastry notes. Pretty watered-down mouthfeel.
Colour: Coppery-amber, your guess on how much is from the cask and how much is from added caramel is as good as mine.
Aromas: The nose is quite intense. Dried orange peel & raisin hit first. As the dram breathes I get notes of vanilla custard danish, a touch of nutmeg and cinnamon, some dried apple and a touch of oak. After a few more minutes in the glass, there is some sherry nuttiness and cooking herbs (dried bay leaf maybe), a whiff of milk chocolate and less apple and vanilla.
Taste: Not much to write about, the triple distilled spirit at 40%, rather than smooth feels watery. Sugary sweetness and orange hit first. Then some porridge and raisin notes.
Finish: weak, and Fades away quickly. There is some sherry spice and orange peel, but it is very faint. The aftertaste is sweet and slightly gingery, closing slightly bitter-tannic.
How does it behave with a drop of water?
Simply put, don’t. This whisky disappears into nothingness if diluted further.
Conclusions
The broader category of 40% whiskies with an intriguing nose and disappointing taste gains another member after this review of the Auchentoshan 12. I know I am starting to sound like a broken reord. What is even more frustrating with this specific bottle, compared to all of those tasted up to now, is the size of the gap between aroma intensity on the nose and the lack thereof on the taste and finish. And that is without even going to the non-existent mouthfeel. I could consider it a sherry-forward pair for the Glenmorangie 10. Yet, as light as the Glenmorangie is, it delivers a more cohesive experience by far.
As the only Scottish distillery to offer a fully triple-distilled lineup of whiskies, until Rosebank’s newly restarted production hits the market in a few years, it would be great for Auchentoshan to be a strong Scottish representative for the style. The current age-statement lineup from the distillery is offered at 40%-43% with the sole non-age-statement Blood Oak travel retail at 46% abv.
If I could wish upon a star…
Ireland shows that triple distillation does not have to be bland or boring. My experience with Irish whisky is very limited but judging from the online kudos some brands receive from the whisky community, it is hard to argue they aren’t winning the hearts of whisky lovers.
It would be great if Auchentoshan could release a line of 46% whiskies with an age statement, taking a leaf from the ever popular Redbreast line Midelton produces in Ireland, to showcase what triple distillation can deliver on the other side of the Irish Sea. Maybe that is too much to hope for. At least release a Cask Strength edition to showcase what the distillery can deliver like Beam Suntory already does with Laphroaig.
My impression is that the market segment Auchentoshan is going after as a brand is, unfortunately, not that of the whisky aficionados or geeks. As such I have little hope any of these wishes may come true, though I would love to be wrong. The best option to check the potential of Auchentoshan’s distillate is probably in the Independent Bottlers’ (IB) area. Since exploring what IBs offer is definitely on the cards, Auchentoshan will probably be on the list of distilleries I will look for at that point, even if just to understand if the potential that the aromas in the lowly 12 year old show can be delivered in a better expression of the same spirit.
I always find it interesting, after writing my tasting notes, to look at other opinions. That wasn’t as easy as I thought for this whisky
In any case, here are a few other reviews of the Auchentoshan 12 year old l I enjoyed:
And one from a few years back from Ralfy
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