TL:DR: simple yet not without character. Appropriately named for the cask influence it shows.
Vote*: 5.5, Between Average and Good
*Votes are based on the scoring scale used by Dramface, slightly modified to allow half-points
Wanting to pick a second Sherry cask influenced whisky to review, I chose the Aberlour 12 year old, double cask matured. As I hinted in my Auchentoshan 12 review, the choice was influenced by past experience with the brand and with this whisky in particular. Let’s set the record straight immediately. While the Auchentoshan provided an appropriate, if disappointing, example of a Sherry forward dram, l missed the mark with the Aberlour 12. While the sherry is noticeable, it isn’t the main carrier of flavour. Here both casks show their influence. But let’s not get ahead too much.
Biases and mistakes
There are several reasons why I got it so wrong, besides the obvious not doing my research properly.
Aberlour’s name is associated in the minds of many whisky lovers, mine included, with sherry casks due to its A’bunadh cask strengths whisky. Introduced in 1997 as a very limited release and as a batch release since 2000, it has become a regular part of Aberlour’s standard line up. The A’bunadh can arguably be considered the grandparent of today’s sherry bombs. Maybe this is what set up my expectations incorrectly.
Or maybe it’s memory playing tricks. I tried the Aberlour 12 year old the first time about 10 years back, during what ended up serendipitously being one of my fondest distillery visits. I was booked for a tour at Aberlour in the off-season with another group who never showed up. As a result, I ended up having an in depth 1:1 tour of the distillery and tasting with a lovely member of staff who was incredibly friendly and gracious. Somehow in my memory, the Aberlour 12-year-old was a lot more sherry forward than this review shows.
This makes me realise that there is an intrinsic risk in starting a journey I whisky with some previous baggage. What I might have tried 10 or more years back might have changed or, as likely, my memories might be tricking me. In any case, I suspect this won’t be the last time this happens.
So while the intention to pick a second entry-level sherry forward whisky was a failure, this review of the Aberlour 12 year old is still a good opportunity to look at an easily accessible entry-level whisky and see what each cask brings to the party.
Aberlour 12 year old Double Cask Matured review
Specs
Price paid: 35.60€
Lot/bottled date: 27/3/2023
ABV: 40%
Natural colour: No
Non-chill filtered: Not stated but unlikely
Casks used: American bourbon and European Sherry casks
Tasting
Neck pour: The first of a sweet, orange and fruity dram The Sherry cask is evident but the bourbon influence is unmistakeably there too.
Colour: Rich coppery amber, very likely from added caramel colouring
Aromas: The nose is sweet and simple but with some power. The predominant notes are orange peel, banana, and red apple. There is some vanilla, toasted nuts, and a hint of aniseed and heather. As it opens in the glass chocolate and barley notes emerge and the dram gets nuttier.
Taste: The mouthfeel is quite thin. Conversely, the taste is quite intense though simple, like the nose. There is again orange, chocolate, oak and apple. Oddly, there is something unusual like a hint of laundry soap.
Finish: Medium short finish with notes of orange and chocolate, sweet barley. The aftertaste is of orange, a touch of oak and cereal plus some cooked apple.
How does it behave with a drop of water?
Water makes this whisky less intense, still orange forward and maybe a touch more nutty The fruit is somewhat subdued, while the milk chocolate note, leaving the whisky in the glass a few minutes, is more evident. The Taste remains orangey but also gets more tannic, becoming even simpler than it already was. Overall, it is better without water but not terrible with just a drop.
Conclusions
Contrary to my expectations both the Sherry influence (orange, nuts, chocolate) and the bourbon influence (apple, vanilla) contribute to the tasting sensations of this dram. Having said that, this remains quite a straightforward whisky. What it lacks in texture and mouthfeel, it does make up in the intensity of aromas both on the nose and the palate. This isn’t a bad dram, and it is one I could see hitting the spot for whisky novices. Personally, it does not blow me away. There is nothing wrong with it, but I doubt I will look for a replacement bottle once this is done.
I am tempted to try the non chill filtered 48% version of the 12 year old that Aberlour released in 2022. I was unable to find any and it seems that it was a once-off edition, so I guess I will keep wondering if a more integrity presentation might make a more rewarding dram to sip.
After writing my tasting notes, I always find it interesting to look at other opinions. Here are a few other reviews of the Aberlour 12 Double Cask Matured:
No Nonsense Whisky …who also presents this as an introductory sherry whisk. Maybe I wasn’t so wrong after all!
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