If my previous post was about the whisky considered by many as the best entry bottle for Cask Strenght whisky, today’s post will focus on what is arguably another contender for that spot. And while the Arran Quarter Cask is a 100% ex-Bourbon matured malt, today’s whisky in review, the Tomatin Cask Strength, brings a blend of ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry matured spirit together. If you prefer that combination over pure ex-Burbon, that alone may sway you over. But maybe, you are a bit on the fence about Tomatin, like I was until recently.
TL:DR: A fun whisky, deceivingly simple at first, develops into a rich multilayered character. Give it some time in the glass.
Score*: 7, Very good stuff
The distillery limbo
Talk for a short while with a fellow whisky enthusiast about distilleries, and, likely, you will rapidly end up talking about favourites. And, if you are feeling mean spirited, about those distilleries you would never be seen dead buying. For “some reason”, the latter will more often than not include Jura and/or Macallan. Between those two extremes is what I like to call the whisky limbo. A list, often quite, long of distilleries willfully or casually ignored. Ignored because they rarely make it to market, like a few of Diageo’s distilleries. Maybe you came across them, but they left you unexcited about their product. For me, more often than not, it is a matter of failing to get my attention, in an ever more competitive market.
Until recently, Tomatin fell squarely in this limbo for me. I have tried and reviewed their Legacy, a solid and affordable entry-level whisky, just not a particularly exciting one. I was slightly intrigued by their wine cask releases, especially the Italian ones – for obvious patriotic reasons- but the mixed reviews cooled that interest quickly. And so it remained until two casual encounters during the Glasgow Whisky Festival. The night before the festival, I tried a dram of Cù Bòcan 15, which stole my heart. The next day, at the festival itself, a quick sip of Tomatin Cask Strength and 18-year-old convinced me I had been wrong to ignore this distillery for so long. All three of these bottles made their way into my collection shortly after that and will be featured here at some point. First up, is the review of the Tomatin Cask Strength.
Tomatin Cask Strength
Specs
Price paid: €42.42
Bottled date: 5/3/2022
ABV: 57.5%
Natural colour: Yes
Non-chill filtered: Yes
Casks Used: first fill ex-Bourbon and ex-Oloroso Sherry Casks
Tasting Notes
Colour: Deep gold with just a hint of amber
Nose: Rich, almost to the point of being a bit on the brash. The Sherry notes are there but well integrated into the background of the Bourbon cask influence. At first, it appears simple but quickly develops in layers.
There is immediately a huge hit of vanilla, then an apple and pear frangipane tart, buttery, fruity and nutty. The sherry is in the middle ground, clearly oxidative, with raisins and dates, hazelnuts and a hint of rubber hose. And then the spicy and sour notes pitch in. There is nutmeg, white pepper and cinnamon. The sour notes are almost like a base note throughout the nosing experience: sour grape candy, green apples, raspberry vinegar, tangerine and lime peel.
Taste and Finish: Quite rich mouthfeel and fully flavoured. Malty and biscuity at first, and then the Sherry-driven note take over. Not to the level of a Sherry bomb whisky, but more prominent than on the nose. There is fudge, walnuts, mocha, figs, raisins, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg, raisins. The vanilla is still noticeable but less in your face than on the nose. The sour notes are still there and give a nice balance. On the palate, they come across as sour dried cherries, sumac and dried orange peel.
The finish is medium long, and drying, slightly oaky. Dry apples, raisins, nutmeg and cinnamon, a bit of that raspberry vinegar again and a persistent coffee, dates and baked apples aftertaste.
Adding water brings out more sweetness, fresh fruit and spiciness on the nose and a more malty and spicy character on the palate. It can definitely take water without losing its character, but I prefer it much more as is.
Score*: 7, very good stuff
When I cracked open this bottle and had the proverbial neck pour, I was left a little puzzled. The whisky in the glass was rich and exuberant but a lot more straightforward than the sip I recalled having at the Glasgow Whisky Festival. Did I grab a bad batch, or was the bottle at the festival a hand-picked, best bottle of the bunch? I shouldn’t have been cynical. I just needed patience. And, if I ever doubted the neck pour effect, I am a believer now.
From the third dram, with a bit of air exposure, this Tomatin Cask Strength in today’s review started to open up beautifully. It revealed all its layers: sweet and fruity, nutty, spicy and finally, those sour notes which balance the whole in a spicy sweet and sour bomb. I am about a third down on my bottle, and I am looking forward to seeing how it will continue to evolve. One thing is sure: this Cask Strength has put Tomatin into my “distilleries to explore” list. And at its price, it takes the spot as one of the best entry-level Cask Strength bottles.
* Scores are based on the scoring scale used by Dramface, slightly modified to allow half-points
After writing my tasting notes, I always find it interesting to look at other opinions. Here are a few other reviews of Tomatin Cask Strength I enjoyed:
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