I am starting to write this intro to my fourth take on new distilleries, and I realise I have not moved away from the Lowlands yet. Now, my attitude to the Scottish whisky regions is agnostic, in the sense that I admit they exist but similarly feel they can be ignored without any consequence. Still, it is great to see single malt distillation return to a region that 20 years ago was almost headed for extinction. Having said that, let me turn to today’s review of the Lochlea Fallow, First Crop. Or rather, part review and part reflection on the pitfalls that new distilleries face: precocious whisky release… a sort of distillery premature ejaculation if you wish.
TL:DR: Is three years (or thereabouts) too young to release a whisky? Probably. Does it diminish my interest in what Lochlea is doing? Not at all.
Score*: 4.5, there is some promise here, but it does not come quite together yet
An evolving farmhouse distillery
Lochlea started distilling in 2018, enriching the ranks of the new Lowlands distilleries born after the year 2000. Built on the grounds of a former dairy farm, the distillery produces the barley used in its whiskies but does not malt it. The distillery made a splash by hiring former Laphroaig distillery manager John Campbell at the end of 2021. Somewhat surprisingly, Campbell left Lochlea earlier this year to go and work for a new US distillery in California.
Lochlea’s first whisky was released in 2022. Outside of a few special editions, the output has focused on the Our Barley flagship and the annual Cask strength edition. Since 2022 the distillery has also released the Seasonal edition series, four whiskies inspired by the main farm season. These are named Sowing, Harvest, Fallow (when the soil rests) and Ploughing.
Each has its own character, with Sowing aged only in Bourbon barrels, Harvest in a mix of Bourbon, Port, and other casks, Fallow, aged in Sherry casks and Ploughing aged in ex-Islay casks. Lochlea has announced that this year’s releases, making up the third crop, will be the last Seasons series. I am curious to see how Lochlea’s lineup will evolve moving forward.
My review today will focus on the First Crop of the Fallow. Similarly to what I mentioned in my Kingsbarn Dream to Dram review, although this is a 2022 release, it only popped up in my local shops in late 2023. The 2023 Second Crop has not made it here as the original release is still available here in Italy.
Lochlea Fallow Edition
Specs
Price paid: €59
Lot/bottled date: First crop, 11/2022
ABV: 46%
Natural colour: Yes
Non-chill filtered: Yes
Casks Used: matured entirely in 1st fill Oloroso Sherry casks
Tasting Notes
Colour: A rich, deep amber. Considering this whisky is at most four years old (probably less), those must have been some active Sherry casks.
Nose: Some youth is immediately noticeable, but quickly makes way for the Oloroso-driven aromas. The cask influence is quite prominent. Notes of red and black fruit (plums, blackberries, stewed cherries and strawberries), dried fruit (figs), toffee, and a touch of sulphur. There is some complex spice -some pepper, clove and cinnamon- and finally some woody oak notes.
Taste & Finish: The texture is rich and oily, and the lovely red fruit aromas start to emerge, but the youth of the spirit on the nose takes a turn towards red berry schnapps. This is where things go downhill for me. The oakiness of the cask adds to the unripe taste and leaves me wishing this had two or three added years before being released.
The finish is significantly better with a return of those red fruit Sherry-driven notes and some spice. Quite tannic aftertaste.
Score*: 4.5, Shows some promise
I had to think long and hard before giving what is not a terrible score but not a particularly complimentary one either. But in the end, this is the score the First Crop of the Lochlea Fallow deserves after my review. Does it mean you or I should avoid Lochlea? No. It simply reflects that this is a very young whisky that shows some intriguing hints of quality but could have been improved by some extra ageing.
Why am I optimistic? First, the spirit’s richness is apparent, even in this brashly youthful expression, and shines through. But also because my mind goes immediately to the Clydeside’s Stobcross, which I tasted during my distillery visit, which I found still too young, and the much more accomplished Napier, at 6 years of age. I look forward to revisiting Lochlea soon, hopefully as an age-stated bottle, as long as prices are not as crazy as that 5-year-old special edition.
* Scores are based on the scoring scale used by Dramface, slightly modified to allow half-points
After writing my tasting notes, I always find it interesting to look at other opinions. Here are a few reviews of Lochela Fallow from other whisky enthusiasts I enjoyed:
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